By Andrew Longeteig
Six months of sweat equity finally paid off for Eric Rose and Matthew Busetto. Their much-anticipated southern and central Italian-inspired restaurant, Firehouse, opened June 27 at 711 NE Dekum.
Rose and Busetto’s quest to find the optimal space didn’t take long – less than two weeks.
“We saw it and it made perfect sense,” Rose says. “We were looking at having a neighborhood, family-friendly restaurant. The triangular streets make it a very unique piece of property.”
Woodlawn Triangle’s signature building, constructed in 1913, served as fire station No. 29, which housed firefighters on the top floor and a horse stable on the lower level.
Rose lives in Lake Oswego, but intends to relocate to Portland. No doubt, he is impressed by Woodlawn.
“It’s very unpretentious, very warm and welcoming,” says Rose, who grew up in Chicago. “There is a lot of diversity in this neighborhood. It reminds me of neighborhoods in bigger cities. It has lots of potential and seemed, to us, to be underserved in the way of good places to eat.”
Rose, Busetto, friends and contractors began renovation in January and helped transform the former artists residence to an inviting destination. Demolition work revealed exposed beam ceilings and original brick walls. Firehouse also has a wood-fired oven, rotisserie and grill.
Justin Rideout, owner of the two-story building at 820 NE Dekum, constructed Firehouse’s tables and banquettes from reclaimed rough-sawn fir. The City of Portland Archives gave Rose and Busetto vintage digital images, which they enlarged and hung throughout Firehouse. A framed print of the Firehouse logo, designed by Rose’s son David, hangs in the main dining area.
Outside, a semi-circular stone patio on the building’s south side provides additional seating.
The landscape is a garden oasis in training. There are small orchards of apples, pears, cherries, blueberries, huckleberries, currants, persimmon, crabapple, quince and grapevines, among others. Raised garden beds include arugula, tomatoes and various herbs.
“We will use them here,” Rose says. “We intend to use everything we can, although it can’t fulfill all our needs.”
Firehouse values simple preparations with quality local and seasonal ingredients. Rose and Matthew buy ingredients in small quantities and use them at their peak freshness.
“Buying large quantities and compromising the freshness of the ingredient just doesn’t make sense to us,” Rose says. “We’re using as much produce from small local farms as we can.”
Rose has worked in the Portland and Seattle restaurant scene for 24 years. Before owning Firehouse, he was the food services director for New Seasons Market for almost nine years, overseeing the delis and specialty-cheese program. There he met Busetto, who served as store chef for two years.
“We want to start off in a manageable fashion to give the kitchen the opportunity to give justice to the food without overwhelming them,” says Rose, who employs a staff of six. “As the neighborhood starts to request more days, we will certainly try to do that. It’s nice to start out small and get big, as opposed to start big and get small.”
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